Show up around 6:55 p.m. at Arrandegi Kalea 5 in the Parte Vieja section of San Sebastián and you’re certain to see a small throng of hungry people milling about. But at 7 p.m. the shutters magically roll heavenward like the opening of a stage curtain and it’s time to partake in this anchovy-eating peep show at its most exquisite.
